Your guide to perfect lighting in 360 photography
Struggling with dark corners, harsh shadows, or blown-out windows in your 360 photos? You're not alone. Getting lighting right is the most crucial step for capturing a professional, immersive image. This guide cuts through the complexity and offers simple, effective techniques to help you master your lighting setup, whether you're shooting a product or an entire room.

Why lighting feels different in 360°
Think of traditional photography like lighting a theatre stage you control what the audience sees from one direction. 360 photography, however, is like lighting a glass room where the audience is in the middle and can look everywhere at once.
Your camera captures everything: the main subject, the ceiling, the floor, and yes, any lights you’ve placed in the room. You can't just hide a big flash behind the camera. This is why a different approach is needed, one focused on creating soft, natural-looking illumination that fills the entire space without revealing its source.
The foundation: start with soft, natural light
Before you even think about buying complex equipment, learn to use the best light source available: natural light. Light from a large window on an overcast day is the gold standard for soft, flattering illumination. It wraps gently around your subject, minimizes harsh shadows, and provides a clean, professional look.
To make the most of it:
- Position your subject or camera near a window but out of direct, harsh sunlight.
- Use a white reflector (even a simple piece of white foam board works) on the opposite side of the window to bounce light back and soften shadows on the dark side of your subject.
- Time your shoot. The light is often softest in the early morning or late afternoon. Avoid the harsh, high-contrast sun of midday.
Building a simple and effective lighting setup
When natural light isn't enough, you need to create your own. The secret isn't to use a lot of lights, but to use them smartly.
Technique 1: bounce your light This is the single most effective technique for beginners. Instead of pointing a light directly at your subject (which creates hard shadows), aim your main light source, like an LED panel or a flash, at a neutral-colored ceiling or wall. The wall or ceiling then becomes a huge, soft light source, mimicking the quality of a cloudy day. It fills the room with even illumination and is a simple way to create a high-quality shot.
Technique 2: the halo 360 light setup For product photography, you need consistent, shadowless light from all angles. A "halo" or ring light can be a great tool. When placed correctly, it provides direct yet diffused illumination on the object.
For a more professional setup, you can create your own halo effect by placing two soft LED panels on either side of your subject, slightly in front of it. This two-light setup cancels out most shadows and ensures your product is perfectly and evenly lit.
Your camera's secret weapon: settings that matter
Your lighting setup is only half the story. The right camera settings ensure you capture that light perfectly.
- Exposure: This is the overall brightness of your image. Instead of getting lost in manual mode, start by using Exposure Compensation (EV). If your shot looks too dark, increase the EV (+0.3, +0.7). If it’s too bright, decrease it (-0.3, -0.7). It's a simple dial that gives you powerful control.
- White balance (wb): Artificial light sources can have a color cast (some look yellow, others blue). Your camera's White Balance setting fixes this. While "Auto" often works well, if your image looks unnatural, try a preset like "Tungsten" or "Fluorescent" to match your main light source.
- The HDR advantage: High Dynamic Range (HDR) is your best friend for indoor shots. If you have a bright window and dark corners in the same frame, a standard photo will either make the window completely white or the corners completely black. HDR mode solves this. It takes several photos at different exposures and blends them into one perfect image, ensuring you see the details both inside the room and outside the window. Most Ricoh Theta cameras have an excellent, easy-to-use HDR mode. Turn it on for any high-contrast scene.
Solving the most common lighting problems
- Problem: Harsh shadows and reflective glare.
- Solution: Your light source is too direct. Soften it by bouncing it off a ceiling or by placing a diffuser (like a white sheet or a professional softbox) between the light and your subject. To reduce glare on reflective items, simply change your camera's position or the angle of your light slightly until the reflection disappears from the shot.
- Problem: The tripod shadow at the bottom.
- Solution: This is a classic 360 issue. The easiest fix is "nadir patching" in post-processing. Many editing software options allow you to place your logo or a blurred patch over the tripod legs. For a more advanced fix, you can take a separate, handheld photo of the floor after removing the tripod, and then blend it in later.
Conclusion: take control of your light
Mastering lighting is a journey of experimentation. Start simple. Use natural light. Learn to bounce a single artificial light source effectively. Pay attention to your camera settings, especially HDR, to capture what you see. By understanding these core principles, you'll be able to move beyond simple snapshots and start creating the stunning, professional, and immersive 360 photos you've always wanted.